Our fourth visit to Nice was our longest yet, with a full week where we split our time by staying in two different neighborhoods. We wanted to experience new areas in preparation for a long term stay next spring. Come along as I take you through one week in Nice.

Old Town

The first part of our week in Nice had us staying in a lovely Airbnb in Old Town, the historic part of the city. Normally, we wouldn’t choose to stay in the Old Town of any European city, especially with a dog, due to the narrow streets and potential for noise.

However, this apartment’s proximity to the Promenade des Anglais was appealing. Luckily we were a very short walk to the promenade and we didn’t have to walk Koval in the tight streets for long or often. The main downside of the apartment was that it was up three flights of stairs with no elevator. We made the best of it and loved being close to the sea.

Related: Flying La Compagnie with Koval the Dog in Cabin

Nice Beach Clubs

Staying in Old Town was conveniently located close to the Promenade des Anglais and the Mediterranean Sea which made for easy access to the various Nice beach clubs where you pay a fee and rent a chair and towel for the day. We plan to write more in depth reviews of the beach clubs when we’re back in Nice in the spring. But for now, we got lucky with the sunny weather on the two days we went to the beach clubs.

Your French lesson of the day: “plage” is French for beach.

The most important thing for the beach clubs is having water shoes! It’s well known that the beaches in Nice are more rock than sand and painful on the feet. Having water shoes makes it much easier to get in and out of the water.

Ruhl Plage

Having a late start to the day, we were only able to have lunch at Ruhl Plage, and it did not disappoint. Our lunch dishes were absolutely delicious. I ordered the scialatielli (thick pasta) with lobster while Nik ordered the scialatielli with vongoles (clams) and we shared both.

Opera Plage

Since the beach chairs at Ruhl Plage were full, we walked a short distance to Opera Plage where we got beach chairs and enjoyed a few drinks. After soaking up some sun, Nik and I got in the water. The water was a bit cold when we first dipped our toes in but once we went all the way in, the water was great. Located in front of the Opera House, pictures made for a beautiful backdrop.

Castel Plage

Probably the most popular and expensive of the beach clubs sits at the eastern end of the Promenade des Anglais under Castle Hill. Fittingly named Castel Plage, it is prime real estate. Nik reserved chairs ahead of time for us and we arrived a bit before 11:00. We were seated in the front row and were worried at first because the weather was overcast. Over the next hour or so, the clouds subsided and the sun came out.

The menu was different from Ruhl Plage and a bit more pricey. After seeing our seat neighbors order the Caesar salad with crispy chicken, Nik and I decided to order one to share. It was the perfect portion and so good. No picture, so take our word for how good it was.

Dining Out in Old Town

On previous visits to Nice, Nik and I have enjoyed the lasagna entree at Peppino. While we dined there again during our week in Nice, we checked out some new-to-us places.

Casa Tua

Located near our Airbnb was Casa Tua, a cute little Italian place that hit the spot. The menu was relatively short but that was ok. Nik got the beef stew gnocchi and I got ravioli with a spinach and parmesan cream. Both were excellent and we recommend a meal there.

If you’re wondering why all of the Italian food, it’s important to note that Nice didn’t become officially part of France until 1860 and was controlled by the Dukes of Savoy who ruled Italy.

Marinette

Even though France is popular for its croissants and other bakery items, I was craving a real brunch. Somehow I came across Marinette so we decided to check it out. It’s a super cute space in Old Town and even has a second floor. Both Nik and I ordered pancakes. Mine came with a pistachio cream and raspberries. Nik’s came topped with apple, caramel and granola. Both were tasty, if a little heavy.

They also had a nice selection fresh fruit juices, which we both enjoyed. I’ll definitely return there to eat brunch again.

Cocktail Bars of Nice

Cocktail bars seem to be popping up in Nice and during our week there we made it to two new spots. Really it’d be three, but one was a speakeasy that seemed very overrated when we walked in, so we didn’t bother to stay.

Catherine Cocktail Bar

A short walk from the port, and around the corner from an Airbnb we stayed at in April 2023, is Catherine Cocktail Bar. The whole building was under construction during our stay at the time, so it was cool to see it completed. The bar was at street level so we grabbed a table outside and had a round of drinks.

Related: A Look at places we ate and drank at in Nice, April 2023

Povera

Another new spot that a bartender recommended to us was Povera. Also close to the port, the spot is very new. We were there on a Thursday night and it was pretty slow. Maybe we were there on the early side? Regardless, the drinks were good and our server was very friendly. We’ll definitely return in the future. I’ll be curious if their cocktails change seasonally.

Brasserie de Castillon

While not a cocktail bar, it is a craft beer bar with a focus in Belgian and blonde beers. After looking on Google Maps for new spots, we found Brasserie de Castillon and decided to stop in for a couple drinks. The bartender, and we assume owner, was incredibly friendly. The space was very comfortable, modern and bright. Nik and I enjoyed their seasonal dessert too and plan to return for a full meal when we’re back in Nice.

Valrose & Liberation Neighborhoods

Following our first few days staying in Old Town, we moved over to an Airbnb in the Valrose neighborhood, which is just north of the buzzy neighborhood of La Libération.

Valrose had a young adult vibe to it, probably due to its proximity to the University that is there. It was nice for a change from the Old Town and city center tourist areas. Additionally, the tram to Old Town was basically right out front of our Airbnb making it easy to get around Nice.

La Libération is a neighborhood that we’ve heard good things about and could be a good spot to rent in upon our return to Nice in March. We enjoyed the few places we ate while staying in that part of the city.

L’Authentique Pizzeria

I don’t remember how I learned of L’Authentique Pizzeria, but both Nik and I agreed their pizza was delicious. Nik had their margherita pizza and I had their chèvre pizza with sauce, mozzarella, Chèvre and honey. We cannot wait to return. It’ll probably be our go-to spot if we live in La Libération neighborhood.

The owner chatted with us a bit and was incredibly friendly. If you’re ever in the area, check them out.

Bootleg

Not far from L’Authentique Pizzeria is Bootleg. A cool spot for beers, cocktails and tapas style plates. We made two visits to Bootleg while staying nearby and somehow didn’t take any pictures of our drinks. We’ll just have to return!

We Love Nice

As previously mentioned, this was our fourth visit to Nice and it was just as great as all the other visits. Koval the dog adjusted pretty well and got to wear his matching red beret and scarf set.

Before leaving town for the drive to Antibes, we went up to Mont Boron for a short stroll. The views on a sunny day are amazing.

That puts a bow on our week in Nice. Next stop: Antibes!