The second stop on our mid-August 10-day road trip was a visit to Lyon, the third largest city in France. It was a quick three and a half our drive from our stay in Aix-en-Provence and though we only stayed for two nights, we covered a lot.
Staying Near Parc de la Tête d’or
Nik booked us a pet friendly stay at the Lyon Marriott which is part of the Cité Internationale near the Parc de la Tête d’or, which translates to Golden Head Park. The hotel was a bit removed from Old Town Lyon but well connected with nearby bus and public transport options. The thinking for this hotel was that it was near a park and would offer some good walking routes with Koval.
While our hotel room was very underwhelming, we did enjoy the area.
Musée d’Art Contemporain
Our hotel was also located next door to the Musée d’Art Contemporain, Lyon’s contemporary-art museum. Though we didn’t go inside, there are a handful of pieces of artwork on display outside that we would walk by. Certainly one of the highlights is a piece by Yoko Ono titled Freight Train.
As described by the museum: This wagon, covered in bullet holes from which rays of light shine out, was originally inspired by a dramatic incident: the death in 1987 of several Mexicans who had been trying to cross over the United States border in a freight train. The locked wagon was abandoned in the middle of the desert. Yoko Ono sees this work as ‘a memorial to all the injustices of the 20th century’ and ‘a manifesto of resistance, cure and hope for the future’.
Porte des Enfants du Rhône
The main entrance of the Parc de la Tête d’or is through a wrought iron gate known as the Porte des Enfants du Rhône (Gate of the Children of the Rhône.) The name “Enfants du Rhône” refers to the inhabitants of the region, linked by their history to the Rhone River that crosses the city.
The weather couldn’t have been better when we took Koval out for a walk (and a little photo-op). The gate looked so grand, with its gold accents shining in the sun.
Further in the park is a large lake that offers a variety of boat options for rental.
Nik and I opted for an impromptu pedal boat rental with Koval. Shortly after pedaling, we wondered why we didn’t rent the small electric boat. Nonetheless, it was a great little adventure.
Related: Roadtrip stop number 1 – Aix-en-Provence
Lyon Sightseeing
Beyond the park, Lyon is home to several gorgeous cathedrals, basilicas, and remarkably well-preserved Roman ruins. We really enjoyed exploring the city and the bonus was riding the funicular!
Opéra de Lyon
As Nik and I made our way from the hotel into Old Town, we first came upon Opéra de Lyon, Lyon’s Opera House. It went through a few architectural overhauls but the shell of what stands today is from 1831. The rest of it was re-designed between 1985 and 1993 where the height was doubled by adding a steel and glass cylinder. I love seeing different opera houses throughout Europe and this one is certainly unique.
On the front facade of the opera house are the sculptures of the eight Muses of the Arts. The Muses is also the name of the seventh floor rooftop bar with a terrace that offers spectacular views of the city, even on a rainy and overcast day.
A couple views from The Muses bar:
Place des Terreaux
The main square of Lyon is called Place des Terreaux and is bordered by both the Hôtel de Ville and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.
The centerpiece of the central square is a 19th-century fountain sculpted by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi (of Statue of Liberty fame). The fountain depicts France as a female seated on a chariot controlling the four great rivers of France represented by horses.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon (Museum of Fine Arts) is housed in a former Benedictine convent which was active during the 17th and 18th centuries. Nik and I probably need to start visiting more of these museums because I’m sure the interiors are just as beautiful as the exteriors.
Cathedrals of Lyon
One of the top tourist sites in Lyon is The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. It is perched atop Fourvière Hill, site of the city’s original Roman settlement. More on that Roman history shortly.
Little did we know, as we walked to the funicular that would take us up the hill, that we would pass so many other gorgeous cathedrals.
Begun in the 14th century and only completed in the 19th century, Église Saint-Nizier contains a variety of architectural styles, ranging from the neo-Gothic spire to the classical Renaissance facade.
At the bottom of Fourvière Hill is Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste (or Lyon Cathedral) which shares its grounds with the ruins of two old churches, Sainte-Croix (Holy Cross) and Saint-Étienne (St. Stephen).
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
To reach The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Roman remains of Lyon, it’s easiest to take the funicular up the hill. There are two tracks, one for each destination, but you can also take the funicular to one site and then walk to the other.
As you step out of the funicular station, the Basilica is right in front of you. Absolutely huge.
The inside is stunning with rich colors all throughout. The vaulted ceilings, arches and stained glass windows add to the beauty of the building.
Along the sides, there are numerous mosaics devoted to the Virgin Mary. Putting the religious aspect aside, the mosaics are so full of detail and very striking.
Since the Basilica is perched atop the hill, the views out to the city are gorgeous. If you’re ever in Lyon, make sure to visit the Basilica and explore both the inside and walk around to the back for the views. Entry is also free!
Roman Theaters of Lyon
Lyon was the most important city of Roman Gaul, the region of Western Europe that was brought under Roman rule, encompassing modern-day France and parts of Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and northern Italy. And so it makes sense that not far from the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière lie the Roman ruins of Lyon, which include two ancient theaters.
The Grand Theater is set into the slope of the hill. Originally, there were only two levels of tiered seats for about 5,000 spectators.
It was later modified. The stage was rebuilt and a third level of seats was added, enlarging capacity to 10,000 spectators.
Today, the theaters host concerts, festivals, guided tours and other events. They’re also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Dining Out in Lyon
Though Lyon is recognized for its cuisine and gastronomy, we only had two days in the city. One lunch was at a Lyon location of Chipotle! This marked our second time having Chipotle outside of the United States.
Possibly our best find in Lyon was a beer spot called Hopstore. They had a wide selection of draft beers and decent food. Of note was their great happy hour where every pint was either 5€ or 6€ a pint.
We had delicious pastries at Pralus Boulangerie, highlighted by their famous Praluline, a tasty brioche with pink pralines.
Instead of opting for one of the local specialties such as a quenelle sauce nantua, Nik and I had very solid Italian dinner at Carmelo. I don’t normally order dishes with truffle, but their truffle pasta was outstanding.
Some friends had eaten there recently and it looked really good. We made a reservation, which is highly recommended, and got seated in the back. It’s a unique space with a variety of over the top decor.
That sums up our visit to Lyon.
While it was short, we did really enjoy visiting and need to return. Nik and I never got a chance to visit The Resistance and Deportation History Center, which again, in these times of current events is important to remember the past.
The center is located on the former site of a French military health school. It was occupied by the Germans in the spring of 1943, and used by Lyon’s Gestapo chief, Klaus Barbie, to torture resistance members.
